Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao

Lake Balinsasayao

The purpose of our delightfully grueling habal-habal ride to the rain forests of Sibulan was to see the Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao. The rain forest surrounding the lakes is a national park and home to various species of trees, birds, mammals, amphibians and reptiles. From Lake Kabalin-an, the twin lakes are about half kilometer away. And making a short descent to the lake by way of flat stones was a welcome change from the challenging riding terrain and brain-numbing habal-habal adventure.

The tranquil Lake Balinsasayao welcomed us with its sparkling waters and majestic mountains. We took a short boat ride across the lake to see its twin, the equally breathtaking Lake Danao (boat ride is 250 pesos for an hour). The lakes are two small but deep crater freshwater lakes rising 1000 feet above sea level and separated by a narrow mountain ridge. The twin lakes are nestled in a hollow between four mountains---Mount Mahungot to the south, Mount Kalbasan to the north, Mount Balinsasayao to the east and Mount Guidabon to the west. Lake Balinsasayao lies on the northwest of the ridge and Lake Danao to the southeast.

On the ridge, there’s a 3-storey tower---a great viewpoint to see the lakes. From the tower, we watched the fog descend from the mountains to the lake---it was an amazing sight. There are cottages at the banks, you can also fish tilapia and other freshwater fish, kayak and trek around the lakes. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed because of the lakes’ depth of 90 meters. A trail around the lake is for those who love to walk. I actually wanted to walk on our way back to Lake Balinsasayao's banks but my knees were like jelly after our habal-habal ride.

The narrow, rocky, winding road took us back to town. The blind curves and slopes still made me nervous but I savored the captivating scenery, the glimpse of the rural, simple lifestyle, the wind and sun on my face, and the craziness of our adventure. At the end of the day, we were exhausted but I marveled at the feeling that I have conquered something.

our blue banca
Franzia paddles, April poses for the camera
Lake Balinsasayao from the tower

trail to the tower

Lake Danao
fog coming down from the mountains
smoke on the water
my stressed, old feet
Sibulan highway

Habal-habal ride to Lake Kabalin-an

Lake Kabalin-an

My third trip to Dumaguete last weekend was a memorable visit. Not only because I had the ride of my life on board a habal-habal (a motorcycle) through the rain forest, on steep, twisting and rugged mountain road, but because I met new-found relatives I never knew existed in Dumaguete. The meeting with relatives was great as we traced our roots from our great-grandfather who came from Spain in the late 18th century.

But let me tell you about my death-defying ride to the lakes in the rain forests of Sibulan. To reach Sibulan, we took a 25-minute ride in a multicab from Dumaguete. When we asked some townfolk how to reach the lakes, we were advised to rent a habal-habal because the road is only accessible by motorbikes and 4-wheel drive. There were 3 of us and nobody was willing to sit on the gas tank in front of the driver so we needed to rent 2 habal-habal. The motorbike drivers were charging P600 for each bike to bring us to the lakes and back to town. I used my rustic haggling ability and a bit of my charm until we all agreed at P800 for 2 bikes.

Getting to the lakes was an unforgettable experience. Sibulan is a coastal town and the tip of Cebu is seen across Tanon Strait. From the sea breezes at the start of the ride, the road to the lakes took us to the rain forest filled with scents of trees and sweet mountain air. But the steep, rugged road as well as the elevated slopes were scary at the same time exhilarating. My cousin, Franzia, covered her eyes when the slopes become too steep and our motorbikes seem to have lost control, while April held on to their driver with both arms and legs. Their poor driver was almost mangled from their grasps. It was a hilarious sight! My driver, Edison, assured me that he’s been driving through those roads for the past 14 years---it still didn't reassure me.

Riding a motorbike is not my favorite thing. Motorbikes make me extremely nervous. And riding a habal-habal in those rugged terrain with no helmet, no protective clothing, you’d never believe the bloody scenes running through my mind. But I reasoned with myself that anticipating an accident is pointless, so I prayed harder and steered my mind to enjoy the lush mountain ranges, feasted my eyes at the unobstructed view of the sea, and inhaled the fresh air.

After a 45-minute ride (that felt like 3 hours), we finally reached Lake Kabalin-an. It’s a scenic little lake, very calm and the water reflects the green mountains around it. At the center are trees that have sprouted from the bottom of the lake, giving it a mystical feel. Enchanting Lake Kabalin-an is a peaceful haven after our arduous bike ride...a perfect place to catch our breath.

how about a hammock between the trees? cottages and rock boulders are scattered around the lake

the concrete part of the road

(I was busy holding on to my driver on the steep, rugged parts---too nervous to raise my hand and take pictures.)